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The strength of an interlocking stabilised soil block (ISSB) depends first on the soil it is made from. Cement helps, but it cannot rescue a soil that is full of organic matter or far too clayey. The good news is that you can learn a lot about your soil in a few days, with a jar, a spade and a wooden box.
Dig below the topsoil, usually 30 cm or deeper, because the dark top layer contains roots and decaying plant matter that weaken blocks. Take small amounts from several spots on your site and mix them. Remove stones, roots and lumps larger than a thumbnail.
This shows roughly how much sand, silt and clay you have.
Many soil-block guides suggest soils that are mainly sand and gravel, with enough silt and clay (often around a quarter to a third of the mix) to bind the grains. A jar that shows almost all clay or almost all sand is a warning sign.
Moisten a handful of soil until it is workable, roll it into a sausage, then squeeze it between thumb and finger to push out a flat ribbon. A ribbon that breaks quickly suggests a sandy soil. One that stretches long before breaking suggests a high clay content.
Build a narrow wooden box about 60 cm long and 4 cm square inside. Grease it, pack it with moist soil, smooth the top and leave it in the shade for several days. Measure how far the soil has pulled away from the ends and look for cracks. Heavy shrinkage and deep cracks point to too much clay, which will cause cracked blocks.
Field tests are a guide, not a guarantee. For a larger project or a multi-storey building, have the soil tested by a laboratory and involve an engineer.
Once you know your soil, the next decision is how much cement to add. Read our guide to choosing the right cement ratio, or look at the Standard Straight Interlocking Block Press to see how the blocks are pressed.